May
19
After completed the painting the HGUC Kampfer, its time to apply water slide decals.
Topcoat after decals (3 layers) to protect the decal, and i sand area around the decal to eliminate the uneven surface.
I use wave option parts to create monoeye of Kampfer. 
Comparison between the original HG kits with modified and painted kits.
More photo at gallery, http://www.beckycustomizer.com/completed-works-gallery/#1279
For higher resolution do visit my flickr, http://www.flickr.com/photos/beckycustomizer/sets/72157633500217503/
May
13
Still working on the HGUC Kampfer. Now its painting time, tested some blue on spoons before painting on the kits.
The right one is custom mix clear blue (Gaia clear blue + clear black + small amount clear purple), the left is gaianote clear blue.
Seen like the gaianote clear blue is more vibrant and more suitable for Kampfer.
Here’s the step and layers of paints, to achieve candy coat / metallic color.
1. Gaianote ultimate black (ratio 1: 2.5 ~3 paints: thinner)
2. Mr. Color SM03
3. Gaianote clear blue (ratio 1: 2.5 paints: thinner)
I added little bit of retarder mild in the paints as well. It prolong the drying time and enable the paints to level itself, so it have smoother paint work.
That’s it for now, stay tuned for next progress.
Apr
24
Continue with the HGUC Kampfer, adding more details and sanding / preparing the base for glossy finishing.
Here i replace the pipe in the waist with spring and metal parts.
The original horns on the shoulder are lack of details and the shape is not sharp/pointy enough. So, i replace it with Bandai Gunpla Builder’s part HD MS Spike. Saw and sand the original horns, replace and glue with MS Spike, follow by filling and sanding.
I also enhance the details on the neck. Just by replace the original pipe with spring, and add a screw and koto parts at the inner frame.
Mar
29
Continue with the metal parts. HGUC Kampfer got dozen of thruster, going to replace them with metal thruster. The back thruster is very easy to replace, just drill a hole at the slot and insert the metal thruster.
Comparison for the normal and metal.
The thigh thruster is a bit tricky to replace, need to modify the diameter of the peg to fit in the pc caps.
Now the comparison of the original parts compare to metal parts. It look more details and the contrasting red make the details stand out.
Stay tune for more updates, next will be enhancing the weapons.
Mar
28
Commission build on 1/60 NG Freedom Gundam. Nothing much to show, as it just out of box build, took only some photo during the progress, and its not complete photo. So, basically just brief explanation on the steps i done.
NG (none grade) Gundam is kinda troublesome to paint and remove seamlines, as the parts is sandwich together. The inner frame with different color need to paint first then masked before sandwich the outer layer and remove the seamlines of the outer layer. Here is example of masking i done on the torso. The light blue waist is painted and masked before i assemble the dark blue part. Same goes to the legs and arms.
Face plate painted with candy color, silver on the back of the clear part, clear color at the front. Everything painted and masked before insert into the helmet.
Subtle shading on the parts. Here’s the comparison of a prime and shaded part, with painted part.
Complete shield before apply decals.
Masking and paint some details on the leg.
1/60 scale Freedom decals, from samuel decals.
After panel lines and decals.
Here’s the completed gallery for 1/60 NG Freedom Gundam, http://www.beckycustomizer.com/completed-works-gallery/#1169
Feb
05
One of my favorite monoeye – Kampfer. It still Look nice in HGUC form. Snap fitted the mecha couple months back. Now, start work on it. It will be in metallic blue with some metal parts.
Bought some metal parts for the thruster.
After glue them with CA glue.Replaced the arms details with metals parts. Cut off the circular parts and replace with metal, seal the gaps with putty.
Jan
26
Removing seamlines on big rifle/ big cannon can be so tired and tedious, old MG got this problem, the parts are mostly center-spread. Even a cylinder canister is cut by half, over sand on one part will make the part out of shape.
I took the easier way to cover the seams especially on the details of the cannon, some place are hard to sand and i had to cover it with something. These kotobukiya details part really come in handy.
These part is really hard to sand evenly and to save my time and effort i just cover it with koto parts.
I had over sand the side of the circular details, might as well just trimmed it off and replace koto parts.
Next update will be painting of the MG FAZZ cannon. Stay tuned….
Jan
17
Work on the reinforced armor of MG FAZZ, removing mold lines with ceramic knife, work like magic and it leave very smooth surfaces. Here’s the comparison of the mold lines before and after removal.
Digital camouflage pattern on the fortified armor, cut the masking tapes into small square and rectangular shapes and mask the blue color. Stressful and time consuming parts.
Really glad it turn out well, the hard works do pay off. Now the the fortified armor is done, time to move on to the weapon and back pack. Pheeww….
digital camouflage
Jan
11
It will be a OOB commission build. Spend 2 days snap-fitting this babe.
MG FAZZ, with its super big gun and fortified armor really look bad-ass and huge. I love the white armor pair with the grey, will remain this color scheme with little bit of custom.
Going to add in LED for the eye as requested by the client, so here’s some tools i used for the add-on. 
CR1220 battery, battery holder, swtich and red LED.
I sliced the LED so the tip is flat and glue it on the transparent parts. Testing the LED lit up the clear parts. It look bright and nice.
Made some adjustment on the neck parts, as the LED had taken a part in the helmet, had to cut off the neck to make it shorter. Putty up some gaps and will add in details later.
The outcome of the modification. The battery and switch is located at the back, and i had build a battery box to conceal the wiring and battery holder. Next would be remove seamlines and parts separation for painting. Stay tuned.
Nov
28
Kinda late updates, just to sum everything up for the OGB – 1/35 Core Fighter.
The decals sheet, kinda big and i really like the design there. Don’t think i able to finish it up, so can save for my future projects.
After put the decal on the kits, i would apply mark softerner on the decals, it help it to blend into curve area and make it stick better on the kits, beside it also help to reduce silvering along the side.
After the decals, its the filtering stage, i use testor enamel paints and do the polka dots filtering. Its actually a step to make the surface look dirty and weathered. I kinda rushing at that time, so didn’t took any before or after photo of it.
Here’s the overview of the diorama and the composition of the whole scene/diorama. Its kinda simple and follow the rules in photography, which is the rules of third. Can read here for more info of such rule, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rule_of_thirds
The figure is place at area of intersection of vertical and horizontal lines. Well, its just a guidance which i used in composite my diorama, hope it help.
Here’s the gallery of the completed build, UC Hardgraph: Rescue Mission
Nov
26
GBWC 2012 Malaysia regional final the winners list.
Champion:
1st runner up:
2nd runner up:
merit:
Best HG:
Best Age:
Best Color:
Best Creative and Modification:
New challenger champion:
new challenger 2nd:
new challenger 3rd:
Nov
14
Start to paint the 1/35 Core Fighter base. Here are the step by step i done on the base.
1. Coat the plaster with floor acrylic to protect the polyfoam which might exposed because thinner and paints will erode the polyfoam.
2. Use Black can spray to spray entire base. Let it dry.
3. Sprayed few layer of dark grey, with lighter of grey on top of darker grey, i use mr. hobby light grey to mix with black to achieve the grey above. For lighter tone, just add more neutral grey or few drop of white in the black paint.
4. Dry brush with vallejo color. I used dark sea blue, dark grey, light grey and white on the mixture, to achieve highlight and shadow tones.
Only few updates at the moments, rushing the entry, 5 days left to GBWC.
