Mar
28
Commission build on 1/60 NG Freedom Gundam. Nothing much to show, as it just out of box build, took only some photo during the progress, and its not complete photo. So, basically just brief explanation on the steps i done.
NG (none grade) Gundam is kinda troublesome to paint and remove seamlines, as the parts is sandwich together. The inner frame with different color need to paint first then masked before sandwich the outer layer and remove the seamlines of the outer layer. Here is example of masking i done on the torso. The light blue waist is painted and masked before i assemble the dark blue part. Same goes to the legs and arms.
Face plate painted with candy color, silver on the back of the clear part, clear color at the front. Everything painted and masked before insert into the helmet.
Subtle shading on the parts. Here’s the comparison of a prime and shaded part, with painted part.
Complete shield before apply decals.
Masking and paint some details on the leg.
1/60 scale Freedom decals, from samuel decals.
After panel lines and decals.
Here’s the completed gallery for 1/60 NG Freedom Gundam, http://www.beckycustomizer.com/completed-works-gallery/#1169
Jan
26
Removing seamlines on big rifle/ big cannon can be so tired and tedious, old MG got this problem, the parts are mostly center-spread. Even a cylinder canister is cut by half, over sand on one part will make the part out of shape.
I took the easier way to cover the seams especially on the details of the cannon, some place are hard to sand and i had to cover it with something. These kotobukiya details part really come in handy.
These part is really hard to sand evenly and to save my time and effort i just cover it with koto parts.
I had over sand the side of the circular details, might as well just trimmed it off and replace koto parts.
Next update will be painting of the MG FAZZ cannon. Stay tuned….
Jan
17
Work on the reinforced armor of MG FAZZ, removing mold lines with ceramic knife, work like magic and it leave very smooth surfaces. Here’s the comparison of the mold lines before and after removal.
Digital camouflage pattern on the fortified armor, cut the masking tapes into small square and rectangular shapes and mask the blue color. Stressful and time consuming parts.
Really glad it turn out well, the hard works do pay off. Now the the fortified armor is done, time to move on to the weapon and back pack. Pheeww….
digital camouflage
Jan
11
It will be a OOB commission build. Spend 2 days snap-fitting this babe.
MG FAZZ, with its super big gun and fortified armor really look bad-ass and huge. I love the white armor pair with the grey, will remain this color scheme with little bit of custom.
Going to add in LED for the eye as requested by the client, so here’s some tools i used for the add-on. 
CR1220 battery, battery holder, swtich and red LED.
I sliced the LED so the tip is flat and glue it on the transparent parts. Testing the LED lit up the clear parts. It look bright and nice.
Made some adjustment on the neck parts, as the LED had taken a part in the helmet, had to cut off the neck to make it shorter. Putty up some gaps and will add in details later.
The outcome of the modification. The battery and switch is located at the back, and i had build a battery box to conceal the wiring and battery holder. Next would be remove seamlines and parts separation for painting. Stay tuned.
Nov
28
Kinda late updates, just to sum everything up for the OGB – 1/35 Core Fighter.
The decals sheet, kinda big and i really like the design there. Don’t think i able to finish it up, so can save for my future projects.
After put the decal on the kits, i would apply mark softerner on the decals, it help it to blend into curve area and make it stick better on the kits, beside it also help to reduce silvering along the side.
After the decals, its the filtering stage, i use testor enamel paints and do the polka dots filtering. Its actually a step to make the surface look dirty and weathered. I kinda rushing at that time, so didn’t took any before or after photo of it.
Here’s the overview of the diorama and the composition of the whole scene/diorama. Its kinda simple and follow the rules in photography, which is the rules of third. Can read here for more info of such rule, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rule_of_thirds
The figure is place at area of intersection of vertical and horizontal lines. Well, its just a guidance which i used in composite my diorama, hope it help.
Here’s the gallery of the completed build, UC Hardgraph: Rescue Mission
Oct
28
Overall view of the whole transformation of this commissioned kits. Modification i done on this 1/60 big scale force impulse gundam:
1. Seamlines/moldlines removed.
2. Primed the kits.
3.Shade the parts according to the color, e.g white parts with grey, red parts with darker red, blue with black etc.
4. Painted with custom mix paints.
5. Panel lines and inking.
6. Applying decals.
7. Gloss coat to even out the gaps between the decals and surface.
8. Flat coat to make it look more solid.
Here’s recipe of my custom mixed paints:
White: Gaia pure white + few drop of Mr. Color Light grey
Red: Mr. Color No3 + Mr Color No.79
Blue: Gaia Ultra Marine + mr. color fluorescent pink + Gaia clear blue
Yellow: Mr. Color yellow
Black: Mr Color Black + Mr Color Light Grey
Grey(skeleton/joint part): Mr color field grey + Mr Color Grey FS36081
Grey(details): Vallejo Dark Grey.
Click here, for the completed work gallery, http://www.beckycustomizer.com/completed-works-gallery/#666
Oct
09
Working on a commission work, 1/60 Big scale Force Impulse. It will be straight forward out-of-box build.
The head just consist of 5 parts, kinda simple for the 1/60 size, but its not easy on the seamlines. I actually prime for at least 3 times to get the holes and uneven surface filled.
The parts i would prime with white primer then follow by shading then only the body parts color.
Update on 11 Oct 2012
Remove seamlines by filling up the gaps with Mr. dissolve putty and sand it with sand paper which stick on an ice-cream stick/ flat surface material also can be use.
How to insert the face place after painting.
