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Gundam mid-year challenge 2013 Malaysia winners was announce on 9 June 2013, here is the photos of winners.
1st runner up
2nd runner up
Best creative and modification
Here is the works with its award won. (photo: yong kong woon)
And the group photo of the winners. 
Next round of gunpla event will be on early October 2013 and it will be an Expo!!Yeah, finally its here, predict it will be an exciting one and with more participants and bigger entries. Really need to get moving, don’t want to end up like this mid year :p (unable to complete in time).
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Went to the Gundam competition on the 5th day. The number of entries is much better compare to last year. Over 70 entries, with some awesome scrath build and kitbash.
Although i can’t make it for this round. yet it still excited me and will come for the result announcement on Sunday.
Here the photos i took.
Some new releases which interested me.
RG strike weapon system, its a nice reference
HGUC Messala and HGUC Gerbera Tetra, will definitely get the messala, Gerbera seem smaller in size compare to older mold.
05
HGUC Palace Athene is one of gunpla which very special in designs. One of my favorite. Was planning to build it for my personal entry in Gundam mid year challenge 2013 in Malaysia, but due to my packed schedule, can’t complete it in time. Been rushing it for 2 weeks plus, sleepless weeks, although can’t make it in time still will complete it for next round of competition.
Now, since i got some free time will update on the work i done for this babe.
The only design i don’t like is the skirt armor, the butt look fat. So to reduce the ‘fat’ looking, i lengthen the waist and rebuild the skirt armor, scratched build the rear skirt armor. Even replace the ‘fat’ pipe into double pipes.


Added some details at shoulder armor.
Replace the joint details with G-temple add on parts.
Progress so far, after 2 weeks of rushing.
Next phrase will be panel line and decaling. Also building a base to fit with it. So, stay tuned.
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After completed the painting the HGUC Kampfer, its time to apply water slide decals.
Topcoat after decals (3 layers) to protect the decal, and i sand area around the decal to eliminate the uneven surface.
I use wave option parts to create monoeye of Kampfer. 
Comparison between the original HG kits with modified and painted kits.
More photo at gallery, http://www.beckycustomizer.com/completed-works-gallery/#1279
For higher resolution do visit my flickr, http://www.flickr.com/photos/beckycustomizer/sets/72157633500217503/
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Still working on the HGUC Kampfer. Now its painting time, tested some blue on spoons before painting on the kits.
The right one is custom mix clear blue (Gaia clear blue + clear black + small amount clear purple), the left is gaianote clear blue.
Seen like the gaianote clear blue is more vibrant and more suitable for Kampfer.
Here’s the step and layers of paints, to achieve candy coat / metallic color.
1. Gaianote ultimate black (ratio 1: 2.5 ~3 paints: thinner)
2. Mr. Color SM03
3. Gaianote clear blue (ratio 1: 2.5 paints: thinner)
I added little bit of retarder mild in the paints as well. It prolong the drying time and enable the paints to level itself, so it have smoother paint work.
That’s it for now, stay tuned for next progress.
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Continue with the HGUC Kampfer, adding more details and sanding / preparing the base for glossy finishing.
Here i replace the pipe in the waist with spring and metal parts.
The original horns on the shoulder are lack of details and the shape is not sharp/pointy enough. So, i replace it with Bandai Gunpla Builder’s part HD MS Spike. Saw and sand the original horns, replace and glue with MS Spike, follow by filling and sanding.
I also enhance the details on the neck. Just by replace the original pipe with spring, and add a screw and koto parts at the inner frame.
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Continue with the metal parts. HGUC Kampfer got dozen of thruster, going to replace them with metal thruster. The back thruster is very easy to replace, just drill a hole at the slot and insert the metal thruster.

Comparison for the normal and metal.
The thigh thruster is a bit tricky to replace, need to modify the diameter of the peg to fit in the pc caps.
Now the comparison of the original parts compare to metal parts. It look more details and the contrasting red make the details stand out.
Stay tune for more updates, next will be enhancing the weapons.
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Commission build on 1/60 NG Freedom Gundam. Nothing much to show, as it just out of box build, took only some photo during the progress, and its not complete photo. So, basically just brief explanation on the steps i done.
NG (none grade) Gundam is kinda troublesome to paint and remove seamlines, as the parts is sandwich together. The inner frame with different color need to paint first then masked before sandwich the outer layer and remove the seamlines of the outer layer. Here is example of masking i done on the torso. The light blue waist is painted and masked before i assemble the dark blue part. Same goes to the legs and arms.

Face plate painted with candy color, silver on the back of the clear part, clear color at the front. Everything painted and masked before insert into the helmet.

Subtle shading on the parts. Here’s the comparison of a prime and shaded part, with painted part.
Complete shield before apply decals.
Masking and paint some details on the leg.
1/60 scale Freedom decals, from samuel decals.
After panel lines and decals.
Here’s the completed gallery for 1/60 NG Freedom Gundam, http://www.beckycustomizer.com/completed-works-gallery/#1169
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One of my favorite monoeye – Kampfer. It still Look nice in HGUC form. Snap fitted the mecha couple months back. Now, start work on it. It will be in metallic blue with some metal parts.

Bought some metal parts for the thruster.
After glue them with CA glue.
Replaced the arms details with metals parts. Cut off the circular parts and replace with metal, seal the gaps with putty.

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Removing seamlines on big rifle/ big cannon can be so tired and tedious, old MG got this problem, the parts are mostly center-spread. Even a cylinder canister is cut by half, over sand on one part will make the part out of shape.
I took the easier way to cover the seams especially on the details of the cannon, some place are hard to sand and i had to cover it with something. These kotobukiya details part really come in handy.
These part is really hard to sand evenly and to save my time and effort i just cover it with koto parts.
I had over sand the side of the circular details, might as well just trimmed it off and replace koto parts.
Next update will be painting of the MG FAZZ cannon. Stay tuned….
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Work on the reinforced armor of MG FAZZ, removing mold lines with ceramic knife, work like magic and it leave very smooth surfaces. Here’s the comparison of the mold lines before and after removal.
Digital camouflage pattern on the fortified armor, cut the masking tapes into small square and rectangular shapes and mask the blue color. Stressful and time consuming parts.
Really glad it turn out well, the hard works do pay off. Now the the fortified armor is done, time to move on to the weapon and back pack. Pheeww….































































































































